January 26, 2023
Leaving Tobacco Caye meant we wouldn’t have a bell calling us to delicious, ocean-harvested meals three times per day or be surrounded by friendly, familiar faces. All the windward lodge staff gathered at the boat as we piled in with Skip, Zoe, Teri and Kees (pronounced Case (he’s Dutch)).
Teri and Kees had a flight to catch but we were still able to make a stop at the new bird island to see one of the few frigate breeding locations in the world. As we approached, frigates circled overhead and they flaunted red balls in the trees. Males fill these red sacs with air to attract a mate. It takes about 15 minutes for them to fully inflate. The frigates cannot touch water because they do not create the oils that are required to shed water from their feathers. As a result they steal food from others to eat or bring to their young. Males flew in with sticks to fullfill their nest building responsibilities as we watched. Their wingspan stretches up to seven feet allowing them to stay in the air, soaring, for up to two months at a time without landing.
Sadly, the previous Bird Island breeding area is now just a few sticks poking up out of the ocean. Biologist believe rising water and climate change led to the destruction of this area.
The 45-minute boat ride was bumpy. At one point, we hit the broad side of a wave and it felt like the boat might go over. Lots of white graced the knuckles of us travelers. We arrived at the Dangriga river dock at about 10:05 am and Teri and Kees had a 10:20 flight to catch. As we loaded our bags into the taxi van, our boat driver assured them, “Don’t worry. Five minutes is a lot of time and every moment is precious.” I appreciated hearing that, but it was not me who was late for a flight! Unfortunately, we needed to stop and get gas immediately, which here is about $6.50 per gallon, because we didn’t have enough to go the mile to the airstrip. Our taxi driver called her friend who works at the airport, but she wasn’t at work that day, so she called another contact and told them we were on the way and had them hold the flight. This is how we learned a lot is done in Belize, with friends calling friends and community contacts. Teri and Kees did make their plane, arriving at the airport 3 minutes before take off. They were headed to San Pedro, which is a busier island where they meet friends and play music every year.
We decided to rent a car because it would allow us to get out into the rainforest of inland Belize. It turned out the rental car spot was someone’s house and he wasn’t there when we arrived. A mechanic working on a car assured us he’d be back soon. Not too long after, he did return and pull up our 2009 Ford Escape rental. The gas meter read less than a quarter tank, the check engine light was illuminated, the windshield had a giant crack right in the line of vision, and the process to release the rear hatch door required approximately 15 attempts before it would open. Magically, the price went down from the quote and we all agreed this was our best bet. So after we loaded up the back —and I do mean truly loaded, because Anicka and I each have two suitcases and Zoe and Skip both have one—we were off to the gas station, then to Hopkins.
Being in Belize spurred our curiosity in the people and history of the region. Mayan people inhabited the area long before Europeans arrived. They make up the 11% of the population of Belize according to Wikipedia, and about 50% of people identify as Mestezo meaning Brazilian Hispanic. The country was colonized by the Spanish, French and then the British. British brought enslaved Caribbean and African people to work in the logging industry until the British empire outlawed slavery in 1833. Many of their descendants today identify as Garífuna.
Once in Hopkins, we relaxed by the beach and went to Ella’s Cool Spot for a Belizian dinner of fried fish, shrimp ceviche, jerk fish, and curry. A Garífuna group of six or seven boys led by a spirited older man performed drumming, other percussion including on a turtle shell, and singing at the restaurant. Skip decided to try the pepper garnish on the ceviche…the habanero burned hotter than expected and he had numerous servers aghast. To quote Skip, “Habanero peppers will mark you cry! Thank you Shey for saving my life!” Luckily we had a Virgin Nutty Colada to cool his burning mouth.
Garífuna -Wiki
Anicka and Shey travel while gay 