Tobacco Caye

January 23, 2023

We took a 5am plane from Portland to Houston and another plane from Houston to Belize city. We overcame a hiccup upon arriving: we forgot a suitcase at customs. Luckily, the next morning it was waiting for us at the airport. Anicka said to the customs agent, “have you seen a small black suitcase left here yesterday?” and they said, “the one with the duct tape on it?” What a relief! We were so happy to have all our bags back as we waited for our single prop plane. The pilot invited me to sit next to him in the co-pilot seat for the flight. Off we went to Dangriga, a tiny coastal town where we met the boat that took us to Tobacco Caye, which the locals call Tobacco “Key”.

Tobacco Caye is a three acre island along the Belize Barrier Reef. We stayed at the Windward Lodge which is the only Belizean owned resort on the island. Quaint and charming cannot quite capture how sweet this little corner of the world is.

When we approached the cottage on the beach looking westward into the Caribbean Sea, we were met with the friendly faces of Skip and Zoe- our Portland friends. They inspired us to join them on this adventure in Belize. We had a porch hammock and lounge chairs, inside was a full bed, and some shelving. We also had our own hot shower and a private sink toilet of our own. The place was humble in all the ways we didn’t mind and rich in all the ways we most desired. Three hot, delicious meals of fresh seafood everyday with a bell to ring us together, a Marine biology station steps away from our dining hall with a very sweet biologist-Ronny, and super genuine staff, fun and kind. It felt like summer camp in the most idyllic setting you can imagine.

We enjoyed our meals and free time with Sam and Jordan- the couple who was celebrating their 10 year wedding anniversary (delayed to their 14th year due to covid). Their four kiddos were being cared for by grandparents. They kindly showed us how to play spike ball and also initiated a spirited volleyball game.

We also had a great time with Windward Lodge regulars Teri and Kees. They have been coming every year for 18 years and had many great stories to share- including sinking a canoe and rescuing that same boat, as well as accidentally offering their infant grandchild as offering at a Mayan Temple ruin.

We did night snorkeling and saw a shark, octopus, and an eel, who is called Derrick , as well as many other creatures. We kayaked around the island, lounged in hammocks, danced at the very tiny beach bar, and generally enjoyed our time. We spent a full day snorkeling at various spots along the reef, marveling at the beauty of the coral and vibrancy of the sea life in this part of the world. The lodge is run by a family: Collin is the boat captain, his wife Gorlee runs everything, and their son Triton played in the calm surf as his grandmother watched. The staff guided us on snorkeling tours, fed us delicious meals, hit coconuts down from the trees and chopped them with the machete so we could drink from them. It really was an incredible time there. We have now arrived in Hopkins and will start our jungle adventures, but a piece of our hearts will stay on Tobacco Caye.